Monday 16 May 2016

Thassos

Travel Writing - Up to 2000 words describing a holiday, a journey or even a weekend jaunt! It could be a place you have visited, or even your hometown. The list was endless and I have visited many places, by plane, train, ship, car and even pillion! One place nestles deep in my memory, it was a last minute, late deal, spontaneous trip to the island of Thassos. It was over two decades ago so plenty of research was needed. When I get my book deal I will buy myself a piece of this idyllic Island!



THASSOS

Thassos, described as Greece’s best kept secret.  A hidden gem.  This predominantly green island peeks out like a jewel in the Aegean Sea.  Surrounded entirely by crystal blue waters, near the northern coast of Greece, sits the idyllic island of Thassos.  Here you can immerse yourself in the breath-taking natural environment and get to know a laid-back culture that warmly welcomes each and every visitor.
Thassos lies acutely close to the coast of Thrace and the plain of the Nestos River.  The island is flourishing with history and tradition.  The natural beauty of Thassos is awe-inspiring, with its wooded areas filled with plane trees, cedars, oaks, chestnuts, and fragrant pines. The backdrop is alive with marble and takes on shapes and contours that are not found anywhere else on earth.  Treat yourself to a truly unique and unforgettable holiday on this splendid island.
Feeling particularly audaciously adventurous I reserved my holiday for a nominal amount.  I was aware of my flight itinerary but did not know my final destination that is until I stepped off the plane and boarded my transfer.  I was delighted when I was safely deposited at the Ferry Terminal in Keramoti.  After an exhilarating 40 minute ferry journey, sampling the exquisite scenery surrounding the cool clear waters I knew I was in for a treat and I was not disappointed.  
Stepping out on to the beautiful bay with a shallow sandy beach, bordered on both sides with granite grey rocky promontories, it was paradise on earth. It offers a magnificent beach far distant from all the hustle and bustle of the busy towns on the island, in an environment which will take your breath away. Here God used all his creativity and imagination, in order to create a true work of art in this natural environment. It gives you a real sense of the beauty an island paradise can offer.
The bright green pine trees intermingled with aged grey granite rocks, sweep down to the crystal, deep cobalt waters. My overall impression of this beautiful small bay is of a perfect landscape and an exquisite work of art. It is a place of unparalleled beauty, far distant from the more developed holiday resorts and is perfect for lovers of nature. The sea is crystal clear. Sparkling blue and turquoise seduce your eyes, the warm sand is fine and shining, almost gold, and signifies exactly what it is that Thassos offers to its many visitors. It remains today one of the most beautiful beaches on the island and indeed, I believe, one of the finest in all the Mediterranean.
Paradise Bay is particularly worth a visit and I wholeheartedly recommend that you visit if you can.  It remains relatively undeveloped, with facilities just to provide for the most basic needs of the visitors, and little else. It is 26 km distant from the island's capital, and only 2 km to the south of Kinira. The around-the-island bus stops at the top of the path that connects to the ring road of Thassos, which leads down to the beach. There is limited parking, but one must walk onto the beach, and then choose to go to the beautiful deep sand or on to the rocks, which formerly used to be (and sometimes still are) the naturist beach.  Maybe not quite the scenery you are looking for! The swimming and snorkelling here are superb, and there are many fish to be had for the keen amateur fisherman, and rock pools to be explored - a wonderful day for the whole family.
The endless supply of water sports on the island is only restricted by your energy, ability and imagination.  In addition to the more traditional of water sports such as swimming and jumping in the sea, here you can also enjoy body surfing, kayaking, water skiing, parasailing, snorkelling, pedalos, jet skiing, windsurfing, motor/speed boats and sailing.  For the child in you there is banana and donut riding!
For the keen fisherman, all around the island there are limitless rocky outcrops and jetties from which you can relax and catch a variety of fish and seafood with the simple rod and reel.  Fancy more of a challenge?  Spearfishing is popular in some areas along the island’s coast, especially during the periods when the octopus is more plentiful.  If a little unsure, just watch where the locals fish and follow suit.
Boats are also available to rent and there is nothing quite as special as sailing to a charming secluded beach and to swim, wade or row ashore into a sheltered bay taking in all the beauty surrounding you.  If you are really fortunate you may bear witness to a group of dolphins gliding alongside of your boat.  
Thassos has some of the clearest and cleanest waters in the Aegean, probably even in the Mediterranean and  it is an absolute delight to explore these crystal clear waters, with diving masks and air tanks, discovering the natural treasures hidden beneath the surface.  There are diving schools which offer internationally approved diving instructors in several places on the island.
If you prefer to stay on dry land then why not explore the landscape and geography of this idyllic island.  Bicycles and mountain bikes are available to hire from the numerous bike hire shops dotted around the island.  Thassos is a paradise for both leisurely bicycling or for the more adventurous mountain biking.  Mule and goat trails into the lush and peaceful interior of the island will appear to any one of an adventurous nature.
The valleys and hills of the island welcome walkers and hikers during all four of the seasons, each offering a unique experience.  There are several trails and paths that criss-cross around the island and run from village to village.  The mountain peak of Ypsarion, at 1204 metres high, is a challenging yet rewarding climb, the view you are gifted by reaching the summit is absolutely breath-taking.  Mountain trails lead to some of the least-discovered nooks and crannies of the island, hidden gems of nature's wondrous finery.  Something that can only be achieved on foot.
If you are craving culture Thassos’ ancient past has left the island a bounty of priceless treasures.  You will observe some of the finest examples of world archaeological sites around almost every corner of Limenas, on the peninsula of Alyki and beyond.  Whilst displaying the individual character of Thassos they also represent the true spirit of Greece.  Among the best archaeological sites that you absolutely must visit on Thassos are the Ancient Agora (Marketplace), the Ancient Theatre, the Acropolis, the remains of the walls, gates and temples of the ancient city in Limenas and the ancient temple, sanctuary and quarry in Alyki.
The island's vast ruins are testimony to the thriving culture and momentous power of the ancient Thassians.  They are indeed a part of the island’s unique identity among Greece’s many islands and ancient societies.  Undiscovered ruins continue to be found, unearthed and restored to this present day.  The island’s rich history is documented and displayed inside the Archaeological Museum of Thassos located in Limenas. Another museum not to be missed is the Vagis Museum in Potamia which displays contemporary sculptures by the local Thassian sculptor, Polygnotos Vagis.  Indeed museums on Thassos exist in almost every village on the island.
Carnival in Greece is a period of festivities just before the commencement of the Orthodox Lent.  On Thassos the carnival is still celebrated in the traditional way, focusing on the ancient pagan god Dionysus, the god of wine, feasts and good times. Definitely my kind of god! During the week of carnival there are parties and celebrations throughout many villages of Thassos.  The houses and streets are overflowing in beautiful decorative colours, creating a lively atmosphere.  Floats parade the winding streets with the locals attired as mythical, fictitious and sometimes outrageous characters.
Thassos has numerous delights to tempt even the most adventurous eaters and at the same time the island offers delicious surprises to appeal to the most experienced travellers.  By exploring all of the villages and their local tavernas, or by eating with the locals who befriend you during your stay, you will get to know and enjoy new tastes and aromas that are unique and out of your world. Thassos is of course renowned for its freshly caught and prepared seafood, certainly Grey and Red Mullet, Sea Bream, Sea Bass, Blacktail, Sardines, Royal Bream, Lobsters, Whitebait, Mackerel and Octopus.
If you are determined to experience as many of the best local specialties and delicacies that you can then you should try the winter dish of peppered cabbage, consisting of the local variety of pickled cabbage combined with white beans and flavoured peppery spices.  Tatarka, mainly served in the spring and early summer and in the more sophisticated restaurants.  Stuffed Zuccini Flowers and Sarmadakia.  The flowers of small courgette plants, apart from the fabulous orange colour, can provide the basis for a number of traditional dishes.  They are picked early in the morning before the sun rises while they are still open and then they are stuffed with cheese and eggs, dipped in flour and fried in fresh olive oil.  They can also be filled with fresh herbs and rice and served along with Sarmadakia (stuffed grape leaves).
Pitarakia are a type of light fritters made from slices of courgettes.  Again these are dipped in flour with mint and spices and quickly fried and served with a zucchini relish which gives them a delicious sweet taste.  If you want to sample a very delicious fish try the Kolios “Gouna” this is a local way of cooking the chub mackerel and it probably one of the easiest ways to prepare and cook it.  The fish is slit under its neck and cut all the way around so as to be opened flat in one piece.  This fish lightly salted, smoked and then baked giving it a unique spicy smoky salty flavour.
Thassians have a simple and delicious way of preparing their prized feta cheese.  Slices of feta are placed into a small clay pot with other soft cheeses, fresh tomatoes, sliced peppers, olive oil and black pepper.  The pot is placed into a hot oven where all of the ingredients melt together and the flavours combine to make a delicious Bouyourdi, very simple and quick but priceless in taste and appeal.
After sampling most of Thassos’ culinary delights of an evening I would relax with a glass of Retsina and watch the sunset with an unwavering gaze. As the fiery enflamed sphere of light slowly sank beneath the horizon, melting into the Aegean Sea, threads of light lingered in the sky, entwining with the rolling clouds, coloring the skies, first orange, then red, then dark blue, until all that was left of the sunset was a chalky amethyst slowly sinking into the crystal waters.
My visit to Thassos was a truly remarkable experience and one that I would highly recommend to anyone who wants to experience paradise at an extremely competitive cost.
Hayley Mars